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If you had only one day in the city and you visited St. Peter's or admired the panorama from the top of the Spanish Steps at sunset or walked around the Colosseum to catch a glimpse of the Forum from the gates, you'd well understand why Rome is called the Eternal City. Bustling, beautiful Rome, sprawling among seven hills, is fascinating for both its ancient and its modern wonders.
This is not to say that everyone will like it: Some people are put off by the
city's untidiness and seeming disorganization. But we think it's important to
see the significant sights—after that, you'll either never go back or you'll
plan your return journey on the plane home.
During the period of the Roman Republic, Julius Caesar and other generals extended the boundaries and glory of Rome while simultaneously destroying its principles of government. The Roman Empire followed, remaining a serious power for hundreds of years, but squabbles and coups (as well as the increasing debauchery) eventually led to the division and fall of the empire. In the 1st century AD, Peter and Paul came to the largest city of the day to spread the Christian faith, but they were martyred, along with hundreds of other Christians, during Emperor Nero's persecutions (begun after the fire of Rome in AD 64). Persecutions continued, on and off, until the Emperor Constantine legalized Christianity in AD 314. The first Christian emperor also gave the Catholic Church its first temporal powers, beginning the papal state, which continued until the end of the 19th century (with occasional periods of foreign occupation). During the reign of the papal state, the papal coffers funded the projects of Michelangelo, Raphael and Bernini, as well as Rome's university, the city's infrastructure and the infamous Inquisition.
Benito Mussolini descended on Rome in the mid 1920s and formed the world's
first fascist government. When World War II broke out, Italy allied itself with
Nazi Germany, but the partigiani (Italian resistance) soon convinced the
majority of Italians to support the Allies. The fact that Rome was declared an
open city spared it from being destroyed by bombing but did little to stop the
massacres by the Germans. When American troops liberated Rome on 25 April 1943,
Rome and Italy were suffering from extreme poverty. But the economic boom of the
1950s revived both the city and the country. Rome became the center of
government and continued to grow as the country's political and cultural
capital. Funds dispersed by the Vatican to the city for its monumental 2000
Jubilee were used to improve infrastructure and complete massive restoration
projects, which spurred a revival in art and culture in the city.
The city's main piazzas are also helpful for orientation. Piazza Campidoglio and Piazza Venezia are just northwest of the Roman Forum, and Piazza Navona is still farther northwest. Piazza del Popolo is on the western edge of Villa Borghese, a large park northeast of the Centro Storico. Piazza di Spagna is just south of Piazza del Popolo. Connecting Via del Popolo and Piazza Venezia is Via del Corso, the city's main street.
On the left (west) bank of the Tiber, northwest of the Centro Storico, is
Vatican City. To the south of the Vatican are Villa Doria Pamphilj and Gianicolo
(Janiculum) Hill. The medieval neighborhood of Trastevere is between Gianicolo
and the river. Across the river from Trastevere, just north of Isola Tiberina
(an island in the Tiber) is the Jewish ghetto.
Museums—The Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel; sculptures and frescoes of the Capitoline Museums; art at the Galleria Borghese; modern works at the Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna.
Memorable Meals—Linguine with lobster sauce, followed by baked turbot at Ristorante da Vincenzo; fried filet of codfish with zucchini flowers and artichokes at Piperno; sliced, aged beef with fresh basil and Parmesan cheese at Da Tullio.
Late Night—Fine jazz at Alexanderplatz; a quiet drink at Antica Caffe della Pace; Rome by night as seen from the top of Janiculum Hill or while walking from Piazza Venezia to the Colosseum.
Walks—A stroll in Piazza Navona; a leisurely walk from the top of the Spanish Steps to the Pincio in Villa Borghese at dusk; a daytime walk through the market at Campo dei Fiori; a nighttime walk to view the Colosseum and the ruins of the Forum, beautifully illuminated.
Especially For Kids—A visit to the Museum of Roman Civilization (Museo
della Civilta Romana) at EUR; the Museum of Pasta; a puppet show at Janiculum
Hill; the zoo in Villa Borghese and its Biopark Children's Farm; a search for
statues of animals on fountains and monuments; and, of course, indulging in
gelato and pizza.
Start in the historic heart of the city, called the Centro Storico. That's where you'll find the Imperial Forums, including the Roman Forum. Nearby are the Arch of Constantine, the Colosseum and Circus Maximus. Exploring the area from the Forums to Piazza del Popolo is like taking a course in European art history: You'll pass the facades of noble palaces and churches and stroll through elegant squares. Along the way, be sure to visit the Pantheon. Once you make it to Piazza del Popolo, take time to enjoy the green expanse of nearby Villa Borghese. The park is home not only to umbrella pines but also to three world-class museums: Galleria Borghese, Galleria Nazionale di Arte Moderna and Museo Nazionale di Villa Giulia. The palaces around Piazza del Campidoglio, which make up the Capitoline Museum complex, are also worth visiting.
World-famous examples of Christian art and architecture are contained in St.
Peter's Basilica and the Vatican Museums, across the Tiber in Vatican City. The
nearby medieval district of Trastevere has one of the oldest churches in
Christendom, Santa Maria in Trastevere. The district itself is a great place to
stroll, dine or shop. Back across the river, on the right bank, the Jewish
Ghetto is another medieval area full of ambience. If time permits, you can also
visit the Catacombs of San Callisto or, invariably, one more church.
The basilica is not only a church; it also contains magnificent works of art, including Michelangelo's Pieta. The incredible amount of gold mosaic work and the ornate baldachino are striking, as is the sheer size of the building. On the lower level is a crypt where many popes (and four women) are buried. The scale and amount of detail can be overwhelming—we suggest you take a free tour with one of the volunteer guides. Ninety-minute tours are led in English every day at 3 pm (2:30 pm on Sunday). They start at the information desk to the right as you enter the portico of the basilica.
When the pope is in residence, he usually addresses the crowds in Piazza San Pietro at noon on Sunday. But with a little planning, it's possible to attend a papal audience, which are held Wednesday at 10:30 am in Piazza San Pietro (or in the Paul VI Audience Hall in the winter). Free admission tickets can be ordered in advance by writing. Contact your local parish priest for more information.
There is an extremely strictly enforced dress code for all indoor areas at
the Vatican: knees and shoulders must be covered, for both men and women. The
basilica is open daily 7 am-7 pm (till 6 pm in winter). Mass is held
continuously by visiting priests and on Sunday at 7, 8, 9 and 10 am. Admission
is free; fee charged to ascend to the dome. Piazza San Pietro (take the Metro to
Ottaviano for the basilica and to Cipro-Musei Vaticani for the museums), Rome.
Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere
This 3rd-century church is one of the oldest churches in Christendom—it was
the first church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Since its original construction,
it has acquired stunning mosaics, frescoes and additions of entire chapels, from
nearly every century. Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, Rome.
Baths of Caracalla
These ruins evoke the majesty of ancient Rome, when the aristocracy spent much
time there bathing and socializing. Stroll around the site where ancient Romans
bathed, lifted weights, wrestled, had massages and chatted in hot baths and
saunas. Guided tours explain the extensive and sophisticated heating and
plumbing systems, as well as the social function of the baths—call to make a
reservation. You can also wander through the beautiful gardens surrounding the
ruins. Tuesday-Saturday 9 am-3 pm (till 6 pm in summer), Monday 9 am-1 pm (the
ticket office shuts down an hour before closing time). About 5 euros. Viale
delle Terme di Caracalla 52, Rome. Phone 06-3996-7700.
Castel Sant'Angelo
This round fortress is set on the banks of the Tiber, just a cannonball shot
from the Vatican. The castle was originally constructed by Emperor Hadrian as
his mausoleum, but it was converted later into a papal stronghold and was
connected to the Vatican by a concealed passageway. It's famous as the setting
for the third act of Puccini's Tosca, in which the heroine throws herself
over the parapet. Daily 9 am-7 pm (Saturday till 11 pm in summer). 5 euros; a
tour of the prisons and the secret passage costs an extra 4.13 euros.
Lungotevere Castello 50, Rome. Phone 06-068-190-111.
Catacombs of San Callisto
These four floors of intricate passageways were the official cemetery of the
Roman church between the 2nd and 8th centuries. Guided tours include a look at
stunning frescoes and early Christian imagery (but no bones—the remains were
either stolen or long since transferred to the Pantheon). Daily (except
Wednesday) 8:30 am-noon and 2:30-5:30 pm. 5 euros. Via Appia Antica 110 (take
Bus 218 from Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano, a 15-minute ride), Rome. Phone
06-513-6725.
Chiesa di San Clemente
This Irish Dominican church is a microcosm of Rome—it demonstrates graphically
the many layers of Roman history. At street level is a 12th-century church with
Renaissance and baroque additions. Below this church are excavations of the
previous 4th-century basilica, which in turn was constructed on top of a Roman
house from the time of Nero and a Mithraic temple from the 1st century BC. The
church also has magnificent mosaics, frescoes and Cosmatesque pavements, and it
provides a wonderful example of the changes in Christian art between the 1st and
19th centuries. Its typical medieval courtyard is a quiet oasis from the roaring
traffic outside. The Dominicans give explanatory tours and run a bookshop. Daily
9 am-12:30 pm and 3-6 pm. You can enter the street-level church for free, but
the lower levels cost about 2 euros. Piazza di San Clemente on Via di San
Giovanni (around the corner from the Colosseum), Rome. Phone 06-7045-0944.
Chiesa di Sant' Ignazio
This church was commissioned by the Jesuits at the height of the baroque period,
but their funds were exhausted before they had finished the vault of the dome.
So, instead, they painted the ceilings with some of the most striking trompe
l'oeil work you'll ever see. It's easy to strain your neck looking at it all.
There's an English-language mass every Sunday at 11 am. Daily 7:30 am-12:30 pm
and 3-7 pm. Piazza de San Ignazio on Via del Seminario, Rome.
Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin
This basilica is famous for La Bocca della Verita (The Mouth of Truth).
This huge marble disk with a humanlike face, originally a Roman sewer cover, is
embedded in the portico wall of the church. According to tradition, the mouth
will bite off a liar's hand. The church itself is often overlooked, but its
early medieval architecture, frescoes, mosaics and Masonic imagery inside are
well worth a look. Daily 10 am-1 pm and 3-5 pm. Piazza della Bocca della Verita
(between the Circo Massimo and the Tiber), Rome.
Chiesa di Santa Maria sopra Minerva
This church was built over a Roman temple to the goddess Minerva. Inside you can
see stunning lapis and gold ceiling mosaics and Michelangelo's statue, The
Redeemer. Bernini's playful elephant sculpture is the centerpiece of the
piazza in front of the church, where the ongoing excavations of the temple below
can be observed. Daily 8 am-7 pm. Piazza della Minerva (near the Pantheon),
Rome.
Chiesa Immacolata Concezione
This may be one of the most bizarre sights in Rome. In the Cripta Cappuccini—the
church's crypts—there are five rooms with intricate ornamentation, mosaics and
sculptures, all made with the bones of the Capuchin Friars who lived in the
church over the centuries. It's a spooky but fascinating sight. Daily 9 am-noon
and 3-6 pm. A voluntary contribution is requested. Via Veneto 27, Rome.
Circo Massimo
The Circus Maximus was built in 600 BC. One of the largest structures ever
dedicated to entertainment, it could hold an audience of 385,000. The long, oval
field was used for chariot races and contests between gladiators and wild
beasts. Today, all that remains is a large, oval park—the ancient chariot
course trod only by joggers. It is still occasionally used for large concerts
and important political protests, though. Between Palatine and Aventine Hills,
Rome.
Colosseum
The most frequently evoked symbol of Rome, where gladiatorial combat was held.
Unfortunately, the Flavian Amphitheater (as it was originally named), became a
handy source of marble for various popes who stripped it for their building
projects. Even though you're not seeing it as in the days of the Empire, its
size and history are quite breathtaking. Audio tours and guided archaeological
tours are available. From mid July to the end of September plays are staged in
and around the Colosseum. Almost year-round, you'll see a handful of people in
gladiator costumes who are out front trying to make a few lire off the tourists.
Daily 9 am-4 pm. Entrance to the first and second tiers of the arena interior is
8 euros (the same ticket gains you entrance to a small museum, as well as to the
Palatine Hill). At the end of Via dei Fori Imperiali, Rome. Phone 06-700-4261.
Domus Aurea
Emperor Nero had this enormous residence built after Rome burned in AD 64. Named
for the precious metal used decoratively throughout the building, his
"Golden House" once covered nearly one third of the city, but only a
portion of the structure remains. The frescoes in this palace later inspired
artists of the Renaissance. One of the finest preserved palaces of the age, it
has only recently reopened to visitors. Advance booking required. Daily 9
am-7:30 pm. 6 euros (5 euros for the ticket and 1 euro for the obligatory
booking fee). Viale della Domus Aurea, Rome. Phone 06-3996-7700.
Pantheon
A monumental round temple dedicated to all the Roman gods, built in the 2nd
century AD and today considered the best-preserved ancient Roman structure. Its
famed dome, one of the largest masonry domes ever built, was a technical
achievement of the highest order when it was erected. The bronze coating of the
roof was later melted down by Pope Urban VIII Barberini to make the canopy over
the high altar of St. Peter's. The Pantheon's interior, with the 30-ft/9-m
opening at the top, is stunning, especially when a light rain falls through the
opening. (Some visitors claim they've seen a rainbow formed inside.) The painter
Raphael and the first king of Italy, Victor Emanuel II, are buried inside, along
with hundreds of early Christian martyrs whose remains were transferred from the
catacombs in the 7th and 8th centuries. Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Sunday and
holidays 9 am-1 pm. Free. Piazza della Rotonda, Rome. Phone 06-6830-0230.
Piazza del Campidoglio
This is one of the most historically significant sites in the world. There
Petrarch was crowned poet laureate, Cola di Rienzo was lynched, and according to
legend, Romulus killed his brother Remus. It is the center of the city of Rome
and the site of all the major cultural and political changes of the Roman
Republic, the Roman Empire, the Papal States and the foundation of the Republic
of Italy. Michelangelo designed the current piazza and surrounding palaces,
incorporating elements that remained from ancient Rome. Guarding the entrance to
the piazza, at the top of the staircase, are gigantic statues of Castor and
Pollux. The circular star set in the pavement at the top of the hill leads your
eye to the gilded bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius. From the church
perched above the piazza, Santa Maria in Ara Coeli, you can get a good view of
Rome, and on the road to the right (south) side of the piazza, you'll find one
of the best views of the Forum. On Capitoline Hill (near Piazza Venezia, tucked
behind the Vittoriano monument), Rome.
Piazza del Popolo
Together with the Porto del Popolo (the arched gateway leading into this vast
square), this was the first sight 18th-century travelers had of Rome. Today,
it's a popular shopping area. Matching baroque churches divide three streets
that radiate from the piazza—it's known as the Trident. In the center of the
piazza are an obelisk and lion statues spitting water. At the western end of
Villa Borghese, Rome.
Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps
The piazza is the heart of Rome's most fashionable shopping area, and it's
familiar to residents and visitors alike because of the Spanish Steps ascending
grandly from it—they're a great place to perch, rest and watch street
musicians, vendors, young lovers and other tourists. The steps are at their most
impressive in spring, when the staircases are decorated with azaleas—it's
really something to behold. At the base sits a Bernini fountain, John Keats'
house overlooks the steps, and at the top there's a grand view of the city.
South of Piazza del Popolo, near Villa Borghese, Rome.
Piazza Navona
This serene piazza was originally laid out as an athletic stadium in AD 90.
Today you can savor the play of light on terra-cotta and ocher stucco buildings
and admire the baroque church dedicated to St. Agnes. You can't miss the
sculptor Bernini's Fountain of the Moor and Fountain of the Four Rivers (its
colossal figures represent four great rivers and their continents). A third
fountain has a 19th-century rendering of Neptune. Once the scene of great
aquatic competitions (for which the square was flooded), Piazza Navona today is
the perfect spot for eating gelato tartufo and people watching. There are
street artists and, during the Christmas season, a fair with numerous stalls.
Just west of the Pantheon, Rome.
Piazza Venezia and the Vittoriano
A huge and bustling square and the heart of the city's main traffic arteries.
It's framed by Palazzo Venezia (from the balcony, Mussolini harangued the crowds
below), Palazzo San Marco and the Vittoriano monument. This multitiered memorial
to the Unknown Soldier and Italy's first king, inaugurated in 1911, houses a
museum of the Risorgimento (Italian unification movement). It's popularly known
as the "Wedding Cake" and has only recently opened to the public.
There are great views of Rome from the higher levels. A tourist information
office is housed around the left side (as you face the front of the monument).
At the south end of Via del Corso, just north of the Roman Forum, Rome.
Roman Forum
Once the political and religious epicenter of the Western world, the Forum today
appears as fragmented columns. However, even as ruins, the Forum has become a
testament to Roman and, indeed, all Western, civilization. The best view is at
night, thanks to the skillfully placed lighting.
Within the Forum are the Sacred Way, the Via Trionfale (an avenue where
victorious generals paraded with their soldiers and prisoners to the base of
Capitoline Hill) and the Arch of Titus. On the south side of the Forum is the
Palatine Museum. The Forum ruins are open daily 9 am to one hour before sunset.
Free. Largo Romolo e Remo, Rome. Phone 06-699-0110.
Trevi Fountain
The iconic fountain is usually thronged with tourist groups repeating the
long-standing tradition of throwing a coin in before leaving Rome. Turn your
back to the fountain, toss a coin over your shoulder and into the water, and a
return to the city is assured. Even with the crowds, you should be able to get a
good view of the mighty god Neptune riding his winged chariot through gushing
waters supplied by the ancient Acqua Vergine aqueduct. Nicely illuminated at
night. A few blocks northeast of the Pantheon, Rome.
The best time to visit is in the afternoon, when there are fewer
people—it's still crowded, though. The worst time to visit, as far as crowds
go, is on the last Sunday of the month. The museum complex is open
Monday-Saturday 9 am-1 pm (July-October, hours are extended to 5 pm). 10 euros.
Free the last Sunday of the month. Viale Vaticano 8 (follow the Vatican walls
from Piazza Risorgimento if you're coming from St. Peter's; the closest Metro
stop is Cipro-Musei Vaticani), Vatican City. Phone 06-6988-4947.
Out of the city, Lago Bracciano and the coastal town of Ostia are two good
spots for water sports, and the hot thermal spa Terme dei Papi in Viterbo is a
favorite getaway for Romans.
To the Castelli Romani (Colli Albani). This group of picturesque towns is scattered across isolated volcanic hills. The slopes are planted with the vines that produce the famous Vini dei Castelli. Take Via Tuscolana in the direction of Frascati, 7 mi/11 km south of Rome. Or, to reach Frascati, the hub of the Albani region, take Metro A to Anagnina and then take a Cotral bus.
To Tivoli. A popular day trip from Rome (about 45 minutes away), included in many tours. Visit Villa d'Este, originally a Benedictine convent renowned for its impressive garden decorated with elaborate fountains. The estate is open daily. By car take the Via Tiburtina 20 mi/32 km southeast from Rome or take the highway (A24 for L'Aquila, and take the Tivoli Exit). The most convenient way to get there, however, is by the train from Tibertina Station. Once you've visited Villa d'Este, go on to Hadrian's Villa, the largest and richest imperial villa of the Roman Empire era. The residence of Emperor Hadrian, it's one of the most evocative classical sites that still stands in Italy. Take a picnic and eat while sitting on the grass. Local buses stop at the intersection for Hadrian's Villa.
To Viterbese or Tuscia. These
areas north of Rome are still relatively unknown to international visitors. The
sparsely inhabited hill towns are famous for the profusion of elegant
Renaissance gardens, architectural masterpieces, cool lakes, crafts,
extra-virgin olive oil and cooking. Magnificent fountain-filled gardens can be
visited at Villa Lante at Bagnaia, a suburb of Viterbo. Italy's best-preserved
Renaissance parterre is at Principessa Claudia Ruspoli's family castello
in Vignanello, a town famous for its wine. Another princess, Elika Del Drago,
gives spring and summer tours of her island's gardens on Isola Bisentina,
located in Lake Bolsena. Enjoy a fish lunch at one of the many lakeside
restaurants in Capodimonte or Marta and then visit the medieval center of
Bolsena (known for its catacombs and castle museum). A rental car is best for
this day trip, or you can take a modern train from Stazione S. Pietro or an
older train from Roma Nord Station to the Cotral bus depot, Saxa Rubra, where
buses leave for towns north of Rome.
If you're looking to splurge, you could hire a horse cab. The fare for a
one-hour tour should be about 80 euros—be sure to establish it before starting
out. Drivers will take you wherever you wish. See your hotel's concierge or
front desk staff to find the carriages nearest to you.
Bus Turistico
Their tours depart from the plaza in front of Termini Station and have
English-speaking guides. Once you have purchased your ticket, you can get on and
off the bus line as often as you like. Tickets can be purchased at the
information kiosk near where the buses depart. Phone 06-4695-2252.
For more elegant and refined dining, try a Tuscan restaurant or Sicilian baroque cooking. Here are a few taste teasers: Begin with an antipasto consisting of marinated vegetables, seafood, bruschetta or a selection of meats. Prosciutto crudo is often served with melon or figs in the summer. For your first course, choose a pasta dish, such as penne all'arrabiata (short pasta with a dried-chili-pepper-and-bacon-tomato sauce), linguini con vongole veraci (linguine with clam sauce) or pasta e fagioli (short pasta cooked in a thick bean soup). Italians who want to keep their appetites sharp for the second course often order a half portion of the pasta dish. For a second (main) course, try rombo (turbot fish), spigola (sea bass) or straccetti con basilico e parmigiano (thin-sliced beef topped with fresh basil and Parmesan cheese).
Expect to be pleasantly surprised by an authentic Italian pizza. In Italy, pizza is treated with a reverence not often accorded it in the fast-food outlets of other countries. A perfect quick lunch is a slice of pizza al taglio at one of the many pizza al taglio cafes. The best ones are usually close to schools.
The most famous wines of the Latium (Lazio) region, in which Rome is situated, are the dry whites—Vini dei Castelli (Frascati, Grottaferrata, Genzano, Marino and Velletri). To accompany meat dishes, choose a full-bodied dry red from the regions of Tuscany or Romagna. If you like, do as the Romans do: Order a carafe of house wine (vino della casa).
After the meal (or between meals, if you like), you should not miss out on Italian coffee. Even those who are not fond of the strong flavor of espresso may find the genuine version far more palatable. In addition to the basic espresso, there are more than 100 variations. Take note, however, that despite the image of the Romans constantly sipping cappuccino, Italians drink cappuccino only for breakfast—never at night or after meals. And gelato, the heavenly Italian ice cream, is a treat any time of the day.
Concerning the timing of meals, modern life has trimmed the traditional Italian-Mediterranean model of five meals a day down to just three: a nearly vaporous breakfast in the morning, a normal lunch around 1 pm (restaurants close from 3 pm until dinner time, so don't wait) and an extremely large dinner at night (never before 9 pm).
Below is a sampling of eating establishments in town. Expect to pay within
these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including
drinks, tax or tip: $ = 7 euros-20 euros; $$ = 21 euros-30 euros; $$$ = 31
euros-45 euros; and $$$$ = more than 45 euros.
ENTERTAINMENT Nightspots are present throughout the city. The Centro Storico offers a wide
range of bars, primarily filled with tourists. Trastevere is the spot for locals
and students, with literally hundreds of bars and restaurants, dozens of movie
theaters and a few nightclubs—it's the best place to go if you don't want to
take a lot of taxis. Most of the nightclubs are in out-of-the-way corners of the
city. The Testaccio area near the Piramide Metro stop is one exception. That's
where you'll find the best dance spots in Rome, as well as a good number of bars
and late-night restaurants. The city's live-music scene gets hopping late, with
everything from South American rhythms to jazz. Keep in mind that most bars
don't accept credit cards, so bring cash for the evening's entertainment. Nearby Cinecitta has served as the studios for some great Hollywood epics and
for Italian directors like Fellini and Rossellini, and Rome taps into the
tradition with a large supply of cinemas, including several that screen movies
in their original language. There are also a number of national and
international film festivals in town. And during the summer months, there are
usually two outdoor cinemas, each with a single screening just after sunset. One
is near the Colosseum, and the other is on Tibertina Island. For more
information, ask at the tourist information booths or check Roma C'e.
Nightlife
Fellini's La Dolce Vita depicted a lifestyle of savoring the city's
sidewalk cafes and nightclubs—and we think this portrayal is still very
accurate today. A typical night out in Rome begins with a late dinner (around 10
pm), followed by the giro (from the verb girare, "to go
around"). This involves strolling through the piazzas of the city and
stopping for coffee, gelato or a drink at a local pub or enoteca (wine
bar). Nightclubs remain virtually empty until about 1 am. The majority of bars
close at 2 am, with nightclubs closing around 4 am. However, this only means
they close the doors. People already inside are permitted to stay until dawn, or
even later.
Bars, Taverns and Pubs
Antica Caffe della Pace
Elegant, 19th-century interior (painted by Lucifero) and charming hanging-ivy
exterior. A bit on the expensive side, but splurge for a drink at one of the
outdoor tables: The view of the narrow piazza and the Church of Santa Maria
della Pace is well worth it. Daily 9 am-2 am. In the evenings it gets going
early, at about 9 pm. Via della Pace 4, Rome. Phone 06-686-1216.
Antica Enoteca di Via della Croce
Sit at the bar to sample delicious, freshly prepared appetizers and to drink
Fragolino, a sparkling, berry-flavored wine, or one of the many other wines.
This is also an ideal place to stop for lunch, dinner or an afternoon drink
while shopping near Piazza di Spagna. Daily 10 am-1 am. It is packed from 5 pm
until it closes. Via della Croce 166, Rome. Phone 06-679-0896.
Bar del Fico
Open 'round the clock and packed, at every hour, with every type of Roman and
tourist imaginable. The large patio is perfect for watching people as they pass
through one of the hottest nighttime districts in Rome. Piazza del Fico 26/28,
Rome. Phone 06-686-5205.
Cul de Sac
This historic wine bar is famous for serving more than 1,400 different wines,
along with other drinks and light snacks. In the summer you can sit on the patio
and watch the tourists mix with movie stars and locals. Daily (except Tuesday)
noon-4 pm and 7 pm on. Gets busy after 9 pm. Piazza Pasquino 73 (just south of
Piazza Navona), Rome. Phone 06-6880-1094.
Enoteca Campo dei Fiori
Smoky enclave of a bohemian set: Walls are lined with shelves of wine bottles,
and the floor is scattered with sawdust. From May to September this is the
"in" place for young Romans and tourists, who sit outside for a drink
under the statue of Giordano Bruno. Monday-Saturday 10 am-2 pm and 6
pm-midnight. Campo dei Fiori, Rome. Phone 06-6880-3268.
Jonathon's Angels
This bar was started by an ex-circus star who has decorated the place with
hundreds of self-portraits in different costumes and periods. The king of
kitsch, Jonathon plays deejay every night. The elaborately decorated,
exceedingly tacky, neo-baroque bathroom is famous throughout Rome, and there's
usually a 15-minute wait in line to see it. The bar is packed nightly after 9
pm, but opens around 5 pm. Via della Fossa 16, Rome. Phone 06-689-3426.
Ned Kelly
Probably the only "sports bar" in Rome—the owner is a former rugby
player. A primarily Scandinavian staff works the Aussie-themed bar. A relaxed
environment and a great place to speak with travelers and Romans alike. Opens in
the early afternoon and is packed an hour before any big rugby or soccer games.
At night, it usually gets busy about 10 pm. Via delle Coppelle 13, Rome. Phone
06-683-2220.
Shanti
This Middle Eastern bar adds a bit of exoticism to Roman nightlife, and the best
and most beautiful of the city's film community often find their way there. The
cocktails are very inventive, and there are occasional live-music acts, as well
as a belly-dancing show every Thursday. It's busy every night, and Saturdays are
reservations only. Monday-Saturday from 11 pm. Via die Funari 21 (near Piazza
Tartuga), Rome. Phone 06-686-8668.
Dance Clubs and Nightclubs
Alpheus
Cutting-edge club that stages special events, including nights dedicated to
jazz, international music, cabaret and theme parties. Tuesday-Sunday after 10
pm. Cover 6 euros-12 euros. Via del Commercio 36 (near the Ostiense/Piramide
Metro stop), Rome. Phone 06-574-7826.
Classico Village
Not easy to get to, or easy to find, but this large nightclub is worth the
trouble. There are four different buildings, as well as a large outdoor area and
a rooftop terrace. It hosts many cultural programs and concerts and occasionally
mixes experimental theater and film festivals in with the nightly dance
programs. Nightly from 10 pm. Cover 4 euros-27 euros, depending on the program.
Via Libetta 3, Rome. Phone 06-578-3562. http://www.classico.it.
The Gallery
Covered in pastels and neon, this small club hosts some of the best deejays from
England and the U.S. Things get jumping after 11 pm. No cover except when
there's a special deejay (then about 5 euros). Via della Maddalena 12 (north of
the Pantheon), Rome. Phone 06-687-1216.
Gilda
Still one of the most hopping places in Rome for the over-40 crowd. Famous local
artists go to be seen, but there's also great dancing for common mortals to
enjoy. The fun rarely starts before midnight; it lasts until 4 am. Cover about
18 euros. Via Mario de' Fiori 97, Rome. Phone 06-678-4838.
L'Alibi
The best-known, most elegant gay and lesbian gathering place in Rome. Deejay
spins dance music. Tuesday-Sunday 11 pm-5 am. Cover is 10 euros on Thursday and
Friday, 15 euros on Saturday. Via Monte Testaccio 40, Rome. Phone 06-574-3448.
Zoobar
A huge dance club near the center of the city, in the hot Testaccio zone. There
is an enormous dance floor, plus an outdoor area, which is used for dancing in
the summer. Open Wednesday-Saturday nights. The fun rarely starts before
midnight; it lasts until 4 am. Cover 2 euros-4 euros. Via di Monte Testaccio 22,
Rome. Phone 06-537-3017.
Live Music
Alexanderplatz
Well-appointed jazz club. Dinner available. Monday-Saturday after 11 pm. Cover
varies but is usually 5 euros-15 euros, depending on the act. Via Ostia 9, Rome.
Phone 06-3974-2171.
Big Mama
"Home of the Blues," in Rome, at least. Big names perform weekly. Walk
there because almost no parking is available. Tuesday-Saturday 10:30 pm-1:30 am.
Cover varies but is usually 4 euros-20 euros, depending on the act. Vicolo
Francesco a Ripa 18, Rome. Phone 06-581-2551.
Caffe Latino
Mostly blues and African-American music accompanies a good, buffet-style supper.
Late at night a deejay transforms the place into a rock disco for dancing.
Membership required, but it can be purchased at the door. Tuesday-Sunday from 10
pm. Membership fee 10 euros. Via Monte Testaccio 96, Rome. Phone 06-5728-8556.
Fonclea
Where most of the big names in Italian pop got started. English
country-pub-style decor. The main room is reserved for nonsmokers. Light meals
served, as well as a lunch buffet noon-3 pm. Nightly 7 pm-3 am. Cover 6 euros,
higher for special events. Via Crescenzio 82, Rome. Phone 06-689-6302.
Jazz Cafe
A live-music-and-dance bar offering more than 200 kinds of cocktails.
Monday-Saturday after 10:30 pm. Cover 8 euros. Via Zanardelli 12, Rome. Phone
06-686-1990.
La Palma
Nightly live jazz and Latin music—check Roma C'e or call for the
month's program. Cover usually 9 euros-25 euros, depending on who's playing. Via
Giuseppe Mirri 35 (in a run-down area southeast of Rome), Rome. Phone
06-4356-6581.
New Orleans Cafe
This restaurant-bar brings the best live rock, blues and jazz to Rome. Along
with La Palma, it's been a major contributor to the current jazz renaissance in
the city. Monday-Saturday after 8 pm. Cover 10 euros, higher for special
concerts. Via XX Settembre 52, Rome. Phone 06-4201-4785.
Performing Arts
Rome's greatest strength in the performing arts is perhaps to be found in the
theater, but almost all offerings are in Italian. (English-language productions
are sometimes put on at Teatro Agora, Teatro dell'Arte and Teatro Ghione.)
Rome's opera standards are also high, and dance companies, both classical and
modern, perform to packed houses. When it comes to classical music, Rome is not
another London or New York in terms of the sheer number of concerts, but the
city's halls and musicians do maintain high standards. Accademia Nazionale di
Santa Cecilia, the major concert hall in Rome, hosts many symphonic and
chamber-music concerts, while Teatro dell'Opera is where to go to see an opera
or a performance by well-known international dance companies. Concerts are also
presented in churches and historic sites. Performing-arts schedules are
advertised in local papers and billboards, and advertisements posted on
buildings in the Centro Storico announce upcoming performances.
Music
Accademia Filarmonica Romana
Presents chamber-music concerts and dance recitals during its October-May
season. Performances are held at Teatro Olimpico. Piazza Gentile de Fabriano 17,
Rome. Phone 06-320-1752 for information. Phone 06-326-5991 for tickets. http://www.filarmonicaromana.org.
Orchestra dell'Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia
This resident ensemble performs symphonic concerts October-June in the concert
hall of the same name. Concerts are sometimes held at the Baths of Caracalla.
Via della Conciliazione 4, Rome. Phone 06-689-2954. http://www.santacecilia.it.
Opera
Teatro dell'Opera
Operas are performed there from mid December to mid June. The theater also hosts
ballet and other performances. Buy tickets at the box office, 10:30 am-5 pm on
non-performance days, and 2:30-8:45 pm on performance days. Via Firenze 72,
Rome. Phone 06-487-4563.
Ticket Brokers
Genti e Paesi
Tickets for a variety of shows and sporting events, as well as to most theaters
and museums. Via Adda 111, Rome. Phone 06-8530-1755.
Orbis
Tickets for a variety of shows and sporting events, as well as to most theaters
and museums. Piazza dell'Esquilino 37, Rome. Phone 06-482-7403.
Spectator Sports
Romans are known for their love of two spectator sports: soccer and horse
racing. Soccer, called calcio, is the Italian national sport, played
September-June. Sunday afternoons are the traditional time for home games of the
main local teams, Roma and Lazio. Horse races take place at Le Capannelle on
Sunday.
Horse Racing
Le Capannelle
The horses run at Le Capannelle every Sunday and on some weeknights as well.
Check with your hotel's concierge or front desk staff for the timetable—it
changes often. Entrance fee is about 16 euros. Via Appia Nuova (south of the
city), Rome. Phone 06-716-771.
Soccer
Roma and Lazio soccer teams
Rome is blessed with two hometown teams. Matches are generally held on Sunday
afternoon. Tickets can usually be bought at the stadium ticket office or through
your hotel's concierge or front desk. When the teams meet head to head (twice a
year), the extreme devotion of Roman fans erupts. Tickets cost 26 euros-80
euros. Stadio Olimpico, Piazzale Maresciallo Diaz, Rome. Phone 06-84911 for
information about the games.
SHOPPING If you want to venture beyond fashions, you can check out the markets at
Campo dei Fiori or Piazza Fontanella Borghese or the city's flea market at Porta
Portese.
Shopping Hours: Stores are open
Monday-Saturday 9 am-1 pm and 4:30-7:30 pm. Most stores are closed all day
Sunday, and some are closed Monday morning. The exception is the Centro Storico:
Some shops there are open all day, even on Sunday. In winter, many shops have
reduced hours.
If you tire of sightseeing, it's unlikely you'll find time to rest—Rome's
selection of trendy stores with the latest fashions is just too tempting. Fans
of Armani, Fendi, Ferragamo, Gucci or Krizia will not be disappointed, but
big-name designer boutiques are merely the tip of the iceberg. The true joy of
shopping in Rome lies in discovering one-of-a-kind items in specialty shops. The
city is filled with stores where custom-made goods, particularly shoes and
clothing accessories, are produced on-site, often using centuries-old
techniques. And each shop gives you the opportunity to take a piece of that
ubiquitous Italian stylishness home with you.
Antique Stores
Three streets—Via del Babuino, Via Coronari and Via Giulia—are lined with
very good shops carrying English, French and Italian furniture, most of it from
the 1700s and 1800s. Granmercato dell'Antiquariato, next to the Babuino
fountain, has three floors for browsing. Other antique shops and rigattieri
(collectors) can be found on side streets near Campo dei Fiori, Via Panico and
Via di Monserrato. In May and October, Via dell'Orso and Via dei Coronari have
antique fairs in the streets. Christie's, Sotheby's and several other auction
houses hold regular auctions throughout the year.
Bookstores
Anglo American Bookstore
Wide selection of English titles. Tuesday-Saturday 9 am-1 pm and 4-8 pm. Monday
4-8 pm only. Via della Vite 102 (near the Spanish Steps), Rome. Phone
06-679-5222.
Feltrinelli
Thousands of English titles to choose from of fiction, travel, cuisine and
history. Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 am-7:30 pm. Via Orlando 84 (near Termini
Station), Rome. Phone 06-484-430.
Department Stores
COIN
The most fashionable men's and women's casual and dress wear and shoes, as well
as glasses, cosmetics, perfumes and furniture. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-8 pm. Via
Appia Nuova 7, Rome. Phone 06-3600-4298.
La Rinascente
Classic men's and women's wear, cosmetics and accessories at moderate prices.
Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-8 pm. Piazza Colonna, Via del Corso, Rome. Phone
06-679-7691.
Markets
Campo dei Fiori
At this market, you'll find beautiful flowers and food delicacies. The best
bread maker in all of Rome is located there—try the pizza bianca,
considered by Roman cognoscenti to be the best in the city. Monday-Saturday 8
am-2 pm. Campo dei Fiori 22 (between the river and Corso Vittorio Emanuele),
Rome. Phone 06-688-06662.
Piazza Fontanella Borghese
This outdoor market specializes in prints, old books, knickknacks and Roman
souvenirs. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm. Via della Fontanella Borghese, west of
Via del Corso, Rome.
Porta Portese
Rome's flea market. You can find practically everything, from a doghouse to an
18th-century sofa. But don't buy without bargaining, and be extremely wary of
pickpockets. Sunday 7 am-2 pm. It's in a warren of streets and alleys beginning
at Ponte Sublicio, on the west side of the Tiber, Rome.
Via Sannio Market
New and secondhand clothes. Monday-Saturday 8 am-2 pm. Near Porta San Giovanni,
Rome.
Shopping Areas
Trastevere
This area, along with the area across the Tiber around the Campo dei Fiori, is
where you can find shops with styles appealing to younger shoppers (jeans,
clubbing clothes, etc.). A number of designers have opened up shops there before
becoming famous.
Via Cola di Rienzo
Starting at Piazza Risorgimento near the Vatican, this is an excellent shopping
area, especially for women's clothing and leather products.
Via del Corso
This central street, running from Piazza del Popolo to Piazza Venezia, has the
best (and some of the most expensive) shopping in Rome. The east side of the
street, near Piazza di Spagna, is where you'll find upscale boutiques. Two cross
streets, Via Frattina and Via Condotti, are a veritable "who's who" of
designer names (with street vendors selling counterfeit wares right in front of
the designer they're imitating). To the west of Via del Corso, you can find more
reasonably priced men's and women's clothes (still of exceptional quality), and
near the Trevi Fountain, you may even be able to find some bargains, especially
in shoes and leather goods.
Specialty Stores
Most specialty shops are one-person or family operations, and their opening
hours are completely dependent on the owners.
Branchini Calzoeria
Men's and women's shoes, based on hundreds-year-old techniques and styles—they
add a bit of anachronism to your dress, that perfect mix of eccentricity and
refinement. General production shoes are between about 300 euros and 630 euros.
Custom-made shoes are about 750 euros and up. Monday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm. Via
Belsiana 92a, Rome. Phone 06-6992-5202.
Ezio Pellicano, La Cravatta su Misura
This small shop sells ties that are handmade on-site. First you select the
color, material and pattern from one of Ezio's large trunks, and then the tie is
made to your exact specifications. They run 27-105 euros. Monday-Saturday 10:30
am-5 pm. Via del Seminario 93 (near the Pantheon), Rome. Phone 06-6994-2199.
Joseph Debach
These handmade shoes are works of art. But don't even think about dropping by
during the day: The shop is a fixture of Trastevere nightlife and never opens
before 7:30 pm. Vicolo de Cinque 19, Rome. Phone 06-556-2756.
Polvere di Tempo, Guytamelli
This store specializes in archaic mechanisms for telling time. It has an
impressive selection of hourglasses, sundials, solar clocks, water clocks,
candle clocks and other antique instruments for calculating and observing the
passage of time. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-8 pm. Via del Moro 59, Rome. Phone
06-588-0704.
SECURITY Rome is among the cities plagued by "gypsies" (who are not
necessarily of Gypsy origin). Children will surround a tourist, often holding
out a newspaper or piece of cardboard. If you see one of these gangs coming, you
must grab hold of your wallet or purse and protect it with great determination.
A small percentage of Roman soccer fans are apt to become violent. While
watching soccer matches, at the stadium or in pubs, it's important to be
attentive to which team the fans around you support. Serious incidents are
extremely rare, but it's better to stay on the safe side. Sporting the wrong
jersey, or even wearing the wrong colors, can sometimes lead to problems.
For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.
Canadian Travel Advisory Line—Phone:
613-944-6788. Toll-free: 800-267-6788. http://www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca.
U.S. Department of State, Overseas Citizens Services—Phone:
202-647-5225. Toll-free: 888-407-4747. http://travel.state.gov/travel_warnings.html. Travelers in need of a pharmacy should know that most are open Monday-Friday
8:30 am-1 pm and 3:30-7 pm. Pharmacies rotate night duty (7 pm-8:30 am). A
schedule published daily in newspapers (such as Il Messeggero or Il
Tempo) lists which of the pharmacies will be open on upcoming nights,
weekends and holidays.
For more information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.
Health Canada—Phone: 613-957-8739.
http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca.
U.S. CDC International Travel Information—Toll-free:
877-394-8747. http://www.cdc.gov/travel. Appointments—Having an intermediary is
essential. Without someone to make the appropriate contacts, you'll find it hard
to get much done. Your go-between can help schedule meetings, which should be
set up well in advance. It is very difficult—nearly impossible, in fact—to
call on a businessperson unannounced. Confirm your meetings a day or two before
they're set to take place. Punctuality is expected throughout the country. Your
Italian counterparts may or may not be as prompt: Those in the northern part of
the country generally are; those in the south are less so.
Personal Introductions—Greet others
with a handshake and a slight nod. Titles are important: Use any professional
titles that are supplied on introduction or, better yet, ask for a list of the
participants and their official titles in advance of the meeting. Continue to
use the title and last name unless you are instructed otherwise.
Negotiating—The pace of negotiations is
slow, and final decisions are not made by lower-level functionaries. The chain
of command in Italian business is both vertical and horizontal, and
decision-making can take a long time. Last-minute demands can be made by a
person who enters the negotiations late in the game. In fact, this is sometimes
used as a negotiating tool. Remain patient and calm at all times.
Business Entertaining—Business dinners
are common but will typically involve only a few key players. If you are hosting
the dinner, ask your Italian contact whom to invite. If you want to pay, tip the
waiter ahead of time and ask that the bill be quietly given to you. If you do
not make such arrangements in advance, you will have to ask for the check; it
will not be brought to you automatically.
Body Language—Italians typically
converse while standing close to one another. Handshakes can extend longer than
in other cultures, and Italians tend to gesture when talking. There is an entire
system of hand signs that they use all the time, though none are likely to be
made by a foreigner inadvertantly. More often, visitors to Italy will start to
imitate the gestures used by the locals without understanding the precise
meanings of the movements—a practice we'd caution against.
Gift Giving—Small but high-quality
gifts are appropriate in some situations: Ask your intermediary for advice. If
you are invited to someone's home, take flowers or chocolates. Exercise caution
in giving wine: Many Italians are experts; if you're not, you may want to select
a different gift.
Conversation—Very little is off limits
in Italian conversation, but avoid being critical of Italian society and
culture, even if your host is. Soccer is a passion and an easy topic (though
discussing individual players rather than teams may be safer), as are art,
travel and Italian culture. The less positive side of Italy, including
Mussolini, World War II and the mafia, are probably better avoided. Passport/Visa Requirements: Citizens of
Canada and the U.S. need only a passport. Check travel document requirements
with your carrier before departing.
Population: 2,646,000.
Languages: Italian. English is widely
spoken—if not perfectly, at least enough to communicate basic information.
Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman
Catholic).
Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean
Time (+1 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the last Sunday in March to
the last Sunday in October.
Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.
Telephone Codes: 39, country code; 06,
city code. Bank hours are generally Monday-Friday 8:30 am-1:30 pm and 2:45-4:15 pm (with
some variation). In winter, banks often have reduced hours. Public phones are getting harder and harder to find—mobile phones have
taken over the country. When you do find one, there's a good chance it will
accept only phone cards, which are issued by Telecom Italia, the state-run phone
company. You can purchase phone cards of several different values at newsstands,
tobacconists (marked by a blue or black sign with a large, white T), post
offices and many bars. Ask for a scheda telefonica. Tear the corner off,
insert it into the phone, and you'll be all set. Newsstands in the city center stock The International Herald Tribune, USA
Today and many international magazines. British newspapers and some U.S.
dailies are available at newsstands in Piazza di Spagna, in Piazza San Silvestro,
on Via Veneto near the Excelsior Hotel, at Termini Station and at the airport.
The stand in Piazza Sonnino (in the Trastevere neighborhood) is open 24 hours a
day, including most holidays.
Wanted in Rome is a bimonthly English-language publication sold at all
newsstands. It has entertainment listings among other bits of information, and
the Web site, http://www.wantedinrome.com, carries back issues. The section
"What's On and Where to Go" is particularly useful. See also the
multitude of entertainment options listed and advertised (in Italian) in trovaroma,
the Thursday supplement published by La Repubblica and available
throughout the city. But the most complete listings are in Roma C'e,
which has an English-language insert. Connecting Transportation
Best way:
Trains run approximately every 20 minutes from Fiumicino's train station to
Stazione Trastevere (travel time is about 10 minutes) and Stazione Termini
(about 30 minutes). Tickets are 3.10 euros and can be purchased from vending
machines in the station—don't forget to validate your ticket in one of the
yellow machines before boarding.
Other options:
If you have a lot of luggage, a taxi might be better. Fares to the city
center run 40 euros-65 euros, but be forewarned that drivers tack on surcharges
for almost anything. Don't allow yourself to be waylaid by cabdrivers while
you're still inside the terminal—their cabs are unregulated and expensive, and
you'll likely regret using them. Instead, go outside and take the first yellow
or white marked taxi in the line.
A chauffeured shuttle service between Fiumicino Airport and your hotel costs
approximately 40 euros. Phone 06-338-3221.
Many major hotels have courtesy vans. You have to let the hotel know your
arrival time and flight details prior to arriving in Rome.
Branches of major rental-car agencies have desks at the airport.
Personal Safety
Rome, like most big cities, has its share of crime. Petty thievery takes place
in crowded areas, such as in the Centro Storico and on public buses. All buses
connecting Termini Station to St. Peter's are literally moving dens of
pickpockets. Don't tempt thieves with flashy, expensive jewelry, dangling or
open purses, easily accessible wallets or unlocked cars. Hold on tightly to
purses and briefcases as you walk and keep away from the side of the sidewalk
nearest traffic (a purse snatcher may operate from the back of a motorbike).
Health
Medical facilities are generally very good, and the water is safe to drink.
You'll see the locals stick to bottled water, but it's a matter of
preference—the tap water is fine. Rome can get particularly hot in
summer—carrying a water bottle and filling it up at the many public drinking
fountains scattered throughout the city can help prevent dehydration. Also, as
everywhere, don't forget your most comfortable pair of walking shoes, as Rome is
a city best seen on foot.
Disabled Advisory
As an ancient city with limited auto access, Rome can be difficult for disabled
travelers to navigate. However, the city council has a number of pamphlets that
may be helpful. Contact either the tourist office at Via Parigi 5 or the
Disabled Office at Via Parigi 22. You can request pamphlets directly via fax
from the Disabled Office at 05-8341-8529.
Etiquette
Contrary to the relaxed image many have of Italy, the Italian business world
emphasizes formality and procedure. Get assistance from a local contact, go
through proper channels, and always present yourself and your firm as well
polished and accomplished.
Geostats
Alternate Name: Roma.
Money
Currency Exchange
Banks are concentrated on Via Veneto, Piazza San Silvestro and Via del Corso.
ATMs are available 24 hours a day outside almost all of them. Cards with the
Cirrus symbol are accepted almost anywhere. To change cash and traveler's
checks, banks charge a commission of about 3 euros. Post offices charge a fee of
3.13 euros. Exchange rates are generally better at downtown banks and exchanges
(cambio) than at the airports or hotels. (At the airport, try to avoid
changing more money than you may need to get into town.
Currency Exchange Rates
US Dollar
Euro
US Dollar
Euro
$10
9.79
$200
195.83
$20
19.58
$400
391.66
$30
29.37
$600
587.49
$40
39.17
$800
783.32
$50
48.96
$1000
979.14
$60
58.75
$1200
1,174.97
$70
68.54
$1400
1,370.80
$80
78.33
$1600
1,566.63
$90
88.12
$1800
1,762.46
$100
97.91
$2000
1,958.29
Taxes
Italy's value-added tax (VAT) is included in the price of every item, ranging
from 20% for clothing to 36% for jewelry. It's possible to get a refund of the
VAT on items you're planning to take out of Italy. Participation in the refund
program is left up to individual stores (many don't want to hassle with the
paperwork), so inquire before making a large purchase. Detailed instructions
about how to get your VAT refund are available at many stores. You claim all VAT
refunds as you leave the last European Union country you visit.
Tipping
Tipping is not mandatory. At times a service charge (servizio) is
included in your restaurant bill. This should not be confused with the cover
charge (coperta), which is a charge for bread and table settings. If the
service charge is included and you are pleased with the service, it's customary
to leave an additional 5%; if the service charge is not included, leave a
10% tip. Hotel staff typically receive 2.50 euros-5 euros. Tipping in taxis is
not obligatory, either, but a tip of 1 euro or so is usually given to the
driver.
What to Wear
As a rule, Italians are very conscious about their dress and have a highly
developed sense of style. Casual dress is fine for most occasions, but a suit
and tie are recommended for business meetings. A jacket for men is advised for
Italian restaurants. The only locals you'll see in shorts and T-shirts are
construction workers or people playing soccer in the park. Bare feet are taboo
except at the seaside or pools. When visiting the Vatican or any major
cathedral, men should wear long pants and women, skirts or long pants.
Sleeveless shirts and shorts are not permitted in churches or the Vatican,
including the Vatican museums. A large scarf can be used to cover shoulders.
Communication
Telephone
If you're calling a number in Rome from outside Italy, first dial your country's
international access code and then Italy's country code, 39, followed by the
city code, 6 (drop the 0 before the 6). If you're calling from within Italy or
within Rome, you'll need to dial 06 and then the local number. Phone numbers in
Rome have anywhere from four to eight digits.
Internet Access
Internet cafes have become extremely common in the center of the city. Many are
extremely small, with no more than 5 computers, but prices at the smaller places
tend to be very low. Check the areas around Stazione Termini and the Pantheon or
along Via Nazionale.
Mail and Package Services
Most tobacconists, in addition to the post office, sell stamps. If you're
mailing something important, skip the post office and use a private delivery
service.
Poste Italiane
All post offices accept international parcels, but special packaging is
required: Boxes must be wrapped in brown parcel paper and sealed with string.
Priority mail (posta prioritaria) and express mail (posta celere)
have speeded up Italy's infamously slow mail. The most central post office is
Ufficio Postale di Roma Centro. Monday-Thursday 9 am-noon and 4-6 pm, Friday 9
am-noon. Piazza San Silvestro 19, Rome. Phone 06-679-8495.
Vatican Post Office
Quicker and more efficient service than its Italian counterpart; it also has
multilingual clerks. The Vatican Post Office may close without notice for
security concerns associated with special ceremonies. Monday-Friday 8:30 am-7
pm, Saturday 8:30 am-6 pm. Piazza San Pietro, Vatican City. Phone 06-6982.
Newspapers and Magazines
Il Messaggero, La Repubblica, Corriere della Sera and Il
Tempo are Italian-language dailies that cover metropolitan news. Il Sole
24 Ore is the daily business newspaper.
Transportation
The streets in central Rome are narrow, scooters are everywhere, and Roman
drivers are far from cautious. If you're still thinking of renting a car and
braving the chaos, know that parking on the street is difficult and that very
few parking garages are available. We recommend that visitors walk as much as
possible—nothing in the Centro Storico is more than a 30-40 minute walk away.
However, if the cobblestones tire you out, if you're pressed for time or if
you're covering long distances, take a taxi or hop on the Metro or a bus.
Air
Rome's main airport is Leonardo da Vinci, commonly called Fiumicino (FCO). It's
about 15 mi/25 km southwest of Rome. The drive from or to the city center takes
about 45 minutes when the traffic flows, but it can be considerably longer when
there's congestion. For airport information, call 06-65951. A second airport,
Ciampino, is used mainly for international charters. It's 8 mi/13 km southeast
of Rome. Phone 06-794-941.
Car
We strongly advise against driving within Rome. If you want to rent a car for
excursions, it's best to take the train out of the city first and then rent the
car: The GRA (the freeway that encircles the city) and its exits are notoriously
bewildering for tourists and locals alike. Driving is on the right.
Public Transportation
The public transit system has seen massive improvement as a result of the 2000
Jubilee. The network includes buses, trams and Metro subway trains. Tickets are
valid on all three forms of transportation, for any number of trips and for 75
minutes after the time stamped on the tickets. You can buy tickets at
tobacconists (marked with a black or blue sign with a large T), bars and
newspaper kiosks, as well as at the green ATAC (the city transport authority)
booths located on all the major squares. A single ticket is 0.77 euros and must
be stamped in a validation machine on board. Multiride passes are available for
a day (3.10 euros), week (12.40 euros) and month (24 euros).
ATAC Buses
In general, this is not the best way to get around. However, Buses 116, 117 and
119 are good because they ply the pedestrian areas of Piazza del Popolo and Via
del Corso. Whenever possible, use the express buses: They're faster and more
comfortable. Pickpockets operate on all buses, particularly on those around the
tourist areas. Be aware of your wallet and bags at all times. Bus service is
generally suspended between midnight and 5:30 am, except for autobus notturna
(night bus) service—these buses run about once an hour, and the hub is Piazza
Venezia. Stops with night bus services are indicated with a large owl, and the
buses are marked with an N.
Metro
There are two Metropolitana (subway) lines. The A line runs from Battistini to
Anagnina, crossing the city from west to southeast. The B line runs from
Laurentina (near EUR, south of Centro Storico) to Rebibbia and crosses the city
from south to southeast. The two lines intersect at Stazione Termini. (Plans for
a third line, running from southeast to northwest, have been postponed
indefinitely—they continually encounter ruins while digging the tunnel.)
Stations are marked aboveground by a large red M sign. Runs daily 5:30 am-11:30
pm.
Trams
These lines are the best ones for visitors: Tram 8 connects Centro Storico to
Trastevere before terminating at Villa Pamphilj; Tram 19 runs from the Vatican
around Villa Borghese; and Tram 3 runs from Villa Borghese to Stazione
Trastevere, stopping en route at Stazione Termini, the Colosseum and Stazione
Ostiense. Trams run 5 am-midnight, except for Tram 8, which runs until 2 am.
Ship
Cruise ships and ferries for Sardinia dock at Rome's port city, Civitavecchia,
approximately 65 mi/105 km north of Rome. A new passenger terminal is in the
works, but until it's finished, cruise passengers are usually loaded onto a bus
at the port for transfers into Rome.
Taxi
Taxis are marked, have meters and operate 24 hours. Cabdrivers are not
accustomed to being hailed and may not stop. Instead, go to a taxi stand (marked
with blue-and-white signs) or order one by phone. There are supplemental charges
for ordering a taxi by phone, for late-night service and for Sunday and holiday
service. Sometimes you'll be charged for luggage. Most taxi drivers don't speak
English, so it's a good idea to have the address of your destination written
down.
Train
Ferrovie dello Stato
The Italian national rail service. Rome's primary stations are Termini (the main
station, connected to both Metro lines), Trastevere (on the rail line between
Termini and the airport) and Ostiense (in southern Rome on Metro Line B, with
connections to Ostia and Naples). Be sure to validate your ticket using the
yellow machines on the platform before boarding a train. Toll-free 1478-88088
for train schedules (in Italian only). http://www.trenitalia.it.
For More Information
Tourist Offices
Ente Provinciale del Turismo di Roma
Provides brochures and maps of Rome and the surrounding area. Monday-Friday 9
am-2 pm. Via Parigi 5 (next to Piazza della Repubblica and very near Termini
Station), Rome. Phone 06-488-991.
Tourist Information Kiosks
Locations include: the main hall of Termini Station, Castel Sant'Angelo, Via del
Corso, Forums, Piazza di Spagna, Piazza Navona, Via Nazionale, Piazza Sonnino in
Trastevere and San Giovanni. Operators at the call center speak four languages.
Daily 9 am-6 pm. Phone 06-3600-4399.